Final wrap up – Via DiFrancesco – Rome to Assisi

What would a final wrap up be without some numbers as those that know me and have read this blog over the years know I’m a numbers guy and love stats 🙂

So here goes!

2023 Via DiFrancesco – Rome to Assisi 12 days of walking:

• 290km/180 miles
• 7,730m/25,360 ft ascended
• 7,011m/23,002 ft descended

And one question I’m frequently asked how does it compare with previous pilgrimages – so I would say definitely the 3 most difficult ones have been this one along with the 2 below. All of them mountainous involving big climbs and descents. I couldn’t really say 1 stands out as the most difficult – for me I would leave it at they all had some really heavy/difficult days! It’s all relative – when your in the mountains there will be and there was very difficult days but the difficulty fades and the beauty experienced in Italy remains !

Via DiFrancesco – 2019 – Florence to Assisi – 14 days of walking:

• 287km/178 miles
• 8,764m/28,750 ft ascended
• 8,489m/27,850 ft descended

Via DiFrancesco – 2022 – Camino Primitivo & Camino Finisterre – 14 days of walking:

• 413km/257 miles
• 9,776m/32,074 ft ascended
• 9,935m/32,584 ft descended

Stamps and Compostela (official certificate of pilgrim completion) is always something to look back at to try and remember those special moments and places – but as always this pilgrimage leaves something much greater – unforgettable memories and joy that are forever seared into your head and heart. Traversing the central Appenine mountains thru the heart of the Rieti and Spoleto valleys gave way to some of the most incredible views I’ve seen on pilgrimages and also the uniqueness of being able to literally look up, down, across, over the valley to where you were day or days ago and realize how far you’ve come is such a cool feeling of awe and wonder! The magical hilltop towns – Spello, Spoleto, Trevi and so many more! The beauty and power of the Marmore falls. The piazzas, cafes, small chapels, ancient cathedrals, the sanctuaries, etc. As I previously knew, it is much different than the Camino de Compostela – the remoteness, the lack of albergue’s, the various trail options that overlap, the daily cost, isolated pilgrim encounters vs pilgrim families. But what you may lose in one respect you gain on the via Difrancesco the core of what pilgrimages are all about to me – a freedom, a joy, the simplicity of life, the blood, sweat and tears of making your way up, down, across and over following in the same exact footsteps of so many before you – touching, seeing, feeling in this case the same exact places Saint Francis did 800 years ago and experiencing just exactly what it is that continues to draw pilgrims of all varieties from all over the world to such special places like Santiago or Fatima or Assisi.

Spoleto valley on the high route into Assisi

The sacred Rieti valley

Marmore Falls

The beauty of a hilltop village

Some random thoughts :

• Although the markings I believe were better than when I last walked from Firenze to Assisi – having gpx files are a must and on numerous occasions saved us!
• The pasta, pizza, risotto, gelato, olive oil, etc – is amazing, the vino incredible even just the house wine so cheap and so good! The bread and breakfasts – disappointing as compared to what I’m used to in Spain and what I had in my post pilgrimage visit to Germany:)
• The warmness of the Italians – no not much English is spoken in these small towns, but from the hotel owner who was waiting on the corner for us in Rome to the small town cafe/bed & breakfast owners were like a warm welcoming committee and the end of sometimes hard days
• Get used to hand washing of clothes 🙂 – only one time were we able to use a washer!
• Poles are a must!
• Take the high route from Spelo to Assisi if possible , take the detour day to Greccio.
• Take the time to experience the special places that are marked, remain or have been built that marks the exact locations of the life of Saint Francis – too many too list! At times I needed some convincing as I just wanted to reach my destination but never regretted taking the time – so keep your eye on the journey not just the destination:)

My first entry for this pilgrimage blog was about picking up where I left off and that certainly held true. I’ve now completed the entire Via DiFrancesco pilgrimage from Firenze – Assisi – Rome – over 350 miles/575k of walking every step along the way. A way that the life of Saint Francis to this day speaks loudly to all who walk these steps. Over 800 years and what remains intact speaks volumes of what this man was all about.

I also experienced for the first time a new kind of pilgrimage for me – picking up where I left off with Lara – It was a new way to experience a pilgrimage for me – to share every step and every experience and the joy that comes with this new way.

Celebratory pilgrimage completion gelato – Assisi, Italy – May 2023

Celebratory pilgrimage completion gelato in Santiago de Compostela, Spain – September 2022

The question that is always posed to me is what lies ahead for pilgrimages – I never truly know that answer as a pilgrimage for me has to develop a life of its own from conception to completion. There are many in my head but one never knows and every one is such a blessing – for now the time is to reap the rewards of the flood of beautiful memories that pop up quite often in my head!

For all who have followed along this journey – thank you! – it also brings me great joy and satisfaction to be able to share at least a small taste of what a pilgrimage is all about – until next time Buen Camino !

TSATFTNW

Day 4 – Via DiFrancesco – Poggio San Lorenzo to Rieti

22.08k/13.7mi – 5 hr 17 min

306m/1,003ft

393m/1,289ft

Well our string of nice weather days ran out today as the ponchos came out for what was a mainly rainy day. Also much of the day went thru very high grass – that basically you could wring the water out of your hiking pants they were so wet! But despite that we were thankful that it was a much easier day than the last few as far as climbs and descents and we did get a few stretches of dry weather so definitely have had worse days over my other journeys.

Also it’s much easier for the rain to come on day 4 after the body has had at least 4 days to adjust. Typically it’s around 4-6 days where the climbs get a bit easier and you can really tell your adapting – not there yet but hopefully in the next few days!

Rieti is a very cool old medieval city that apparently dated back to the Iron Age 9th/8th century BC. It’s one of the larger cities we’ve stayed in so far and we’re staying at nice terrazza pilgrim apartments right in the heart of the old part of town.

Will actually be spending 2 nights in Rieti as Tomorrow we’re taking a 1 day detour off the main route to walk to Greccio – which has significance in the life of St. Francis including the site of the first live nativity scene which this year will be 800 year anniversary of that event. Then will take the 20 minute train ride back and continue on the rest of the way of st Francis from Rieti on Friday.

The process of drying out your totally wet shoes takes a lotta newspaper!

Ponchos on to start the day – owner of the bar and albergue we stayed at gave us this sign to take our picture 🙂

Cathedral had a very cool display of events in St. Francis life

Day 7 a bit of a slog but Lugo awaits

Day 7 – from albergue O Pineiral to albergue de peregrino in Castroverde 18.7 mi (30.07km), 2815 ft gain (858m) ft 3,789 ft loss (1155m)

Today had a bit of everything weather wise from very windy, foggy, misty, drizzly, rainy, damp and at least a little sunshine:) – very changeable which I believe is characteristic of these days in the Galatian mountains. The good news was I felt pretty strong throughout for a long day of some pretty good ups and many downs.

For the good portion of the morning I felt like I was the only one on the trail today 😉 – it was quiet but eventually started seeing many of the familiar faces – by afternoon I was walking with Marte from Holland and the 2 Italians . By the time we arrived in the guidebooks end of stage city O Cadavo it was raining pretty good and we were all hungry and wet. So we stopped in a cafe only to see to see several of what has become our pilgrim family of like 10-12 people I have seen pretty much everyday. It varies from day to day as sometimes u stay at different albergues or push on a little farther but eventually we’ve seem to keep running into each other which has been great.

So yesterday I was saying depending on how it goes I could end up in 1 of 3 places – ended in choice 2 which was farther than the guide book end of stage city but wasn’t willing to go another 7k after getting quite wet and walking into town with 3-4 others to a nice albergue that had a washer and dryer and we all were ready to call it a day!

Tomorrow should be shorter day which is good since will hopefully arrive in Lugo by early afternoon to give a good amount of time to explore this historic city on the Camino Primitivo.

Day 6 a bit of a grind but ending with a little luxury

Day 6 – 18.8 mi (30.19k), 2,867 ft (874m)gained, 1864 ft (568 ft) loss. From Grandas de Salame to albergue O Pineiral

After the last 2 days of just spectacular walking – today was a bit of a grind as the beautiful weather by end of day turned to very windy and rainy. It wasn’t a bad day as I passed from the Asturias region into now the Galacia region, but talking with all the others we all agreed to be a bit spent after the last 2 days. And it seemed like a quiet day overall rather than the excitement we all experienced over the past few amazing days.

As it happens often on a Camino the stopping point of the day was undecided until we reached what would normally be the guide books stopping point for this stage – small city of Fonsagrada. At that point I had been walking most of the afternoon with the American brother and sister (Ben and Cassidy) who started several weeks ago on the Camino del Norte and then connected to the Primitivo. Actually it was more with Cassidy as Ben is a former PCT’er and amazing hiker who walks steep inclines faster than I walk straights lol. We stopped at lunch and decided to forge ahead(only another 3k) to the next stopping point which was a very nice albergue and hotel complex with restaurant and bar (albergue O Pineiral) Of course it rained hardest during this final part but the payoff was well worth it! At lunch we ended up booking ourselves a couple of rooms at the hotel part of the complex. After nothing but albergues so far this felt like a slice of heaven! For 26 euros (yes Spain is crazy cheap to what Americans are used to) I had my own room, own shower and yes own bath towels:). And getting to have a real towel for a night instead of the crappy backpacking towel is definitely the best! (I’ve yet to meet a hiker that likes that backpacking/camping towel)

So tomorrow can finish in 1 of 3 places which could make for a normal day or a pretty long one. I’m trying to get in position to have a short walk in 2 days to the city of Lugo – it is one of the highlight cities on the Primitivo – surrounded by a Roman wall. But the wildcard is the weather which doesn’t look good for tomorrow.

Amazing sunrise today – at least the weather started off good:)

The wild flowers colors have been amazing!

You can’t tell from the video but these windmills had an intense sound to them – it was a little eery walking up close to them. We all had the same reaction when discussing the windmills – sharing a few laughs at days end

Now into Galacia region of Spain

No albergue tonight !

Day 5 – descending to Grandas de Salime

14.3 mi(23.09 km), 2,254 ft gain (687 m), 3,399 ft loss (1,028 m)

Today was a really good classic day on the Camino in that it had a lot of beauty, it had a lot of seeing others on the trail you know by now and stopping at a few cafes for extra breaks with food, drink, and sharing laughs. And then meeting up with seemingly all you’ve seen on the trail over the past 4 days at a stop at a beautiful cafe overlooking the water and dam after finishing off a long descent with a delicious ice cream cone:).

Also now in day 5 those steep climbs are a bit easier, the albergue routine a bit simpler, the physical adapting a bit stronger so all in all this Camino is now settling into its own.

A little shorter today than the previous 4 days so getting in town earlier felt like I had a lot of time to catch up on things. Which means finding an albergue with a washer and dryer, reorganizing my pack, picking up some supplies,etc. The joys of what a simple few extra hours of an earlier arrival will give you. Then finishing it off with a pilgrim mass at the very old church in town center for Grandas de Salime then ended with a pilgrim blessing and the words you hear most often every day – “Buen Camino”. Lastly a very long, very fun dinner with many of those walking the same paths these last 4 days – a very good classic Camino day !

First cafe stop of the day

That actually may be our stopping point for the day we can see in the distance – still several hours walk away!

One of many small chapels you see along the way

Start of a long rocky descent

The yellow building to the left was probably a good hour+ away at this point of descent- that was the great cafe where everyone stopped in for a break with food, drink and a much needed ice cream cone

Hospitales route – spectacular day !

17.1 miles(27.5 km), 3,329 elevation gain (1,015 m), 2,378 elevation loss (725m)

The Hospitales route in the Camino Primitivo is a legendary day amongst pretty much all Camino routes. I had heard, read so much about it I wondered if it could live up to such high expectations- well it did and so much more! It was spectacular – todays day of mountain climbs gave way to possibly the best views of any Camino route and the weather made it even more amazing. It was an unforgettable day that came with thankfully the perfect weather. This route contains the ruins of 3 Hospitales – it really is amazing to know your walking on the same grounds original pilgrims did from centuries ago.

Although a difficult day of mountain climbs it was definitely manageable. I’m not yet quite at the point where I would say I felt strong all day but I have started to notice per usual, somewhere between day 4 and 6 or so your body is getting used to the daily long many times difficult walking.

The next 2 days will continue to be in the mountains and I imagine some more incredible views and difficult days, but it’ll sure be hard to top today! I’m sure the pictures snd videos don’t quite do it justice but they still look pretty incredible! And looks like I can’t load videos maybe if I have some time when I get some good WiFi on upcoming days

Amazing colors in the wild flowers – yellow , orange , purple , red

Extremely steep climb here

Just a casual line up of cows walking down the street my albergue is on 😂

Part of what is becoming this Caminos pilgrim’s family – with a few Americans, Slovenia, Czech Republic, Netherlands, Lithuania, Australian – not in picture but back at our albergue – Italians, British, Ireland

Into the Asturias mountains – day 3 on the Primitivo

Now into the Asturias mountains of Spain – and the next 2 days should be some of the most spectacular of any of the caminos. Tomorrow begins what is known as the Hospitales route of the Camino Primitivo. This route ascends to the highest point on this Camino and contains the remains of what was once 3 hospitales in the mountains to provide and care for the original pilgrims centuries ago. Now of course we’re provided and taken care of at albergues with WiFi and hot water and sometimes washers and dryers lol a bit different than the original pilgrims had to deal with.

But first today – it was a better day for me than yesterday – still not easy but much more manageable! Less distance and less total climbs. The views were amazing all day – on a beautiful blue sky day – seemingly every view was better then the last. Ended the walk at a small mountain town that has 1 little street with 2 albergues and 2 tiendas for pilgrims to stock up as there are no provision no towns in the mountains tomorrow so have to make sure you have enough food and drink.

first stop in town of Tineo My fav breakfast – tortilla patata delicious!

A day of ups and downs!

Today was a days of ups and downs and I’m not just referring to the elevation. It was a rough day 2 – it was longer than day 1 (20 mi vs 16) and more than double the elevation (3,800 vs 1,800) and it rained the final 5k during a very long big climb to end the day. You can’t go through a journey like this without having days like this. Just wasn’t feeling my strongest yet as I’m still in the physical adjustment stage of the journey! Oh and just to add insult to injury – I forgot my sunglasses at albergue which I discovered luckily just 5-10 mins into an initial climb out of Grado and yes I did the thing I said was very hard to do on this trail !! – got lost but with 6 others and we all made the same wrong turn into a rough trail we eventually turned after about 15 or so minutes thinking we’d eventually merge into the Camino trail which is the last thing I needed to do add extra k’s to my day:). Like someone said we were like sheep just following each other:) . As far as my sunglasses go well it was as they say another Camino provides moment – I decided to turn around since I wasn’t too far out and before I got almost all the way back another pilgrim motioned to me if he was going the right way I said yes and pointed to my eyes – his eyes immediately lit up and he pulled out my sunglasses! That was Leonardo from Argentina which I crossed paths with a few times today.

Despite the tough day, the climbs gave way to incredible views and ended the day at one of the most talked about albergues on the Camino Primitivo. Albergue bodenya epitomizes what the Camino spirit is all about. A small Camino with nothing else around it, only 10 beds, donativo and they provide you with a delicious homemade dinner along with breakfast and they do your laundry ! David and his wife take great pride and care of the pilgrims and at the end of the night gave a great history and what the Camino meaning is all about to him. We had a great group tonight and believe it or not the Americans has the most (4 of us at the table). We had Italians, Netherlands, Germany, Slovenia with us. Walking in I was really beat and not feeling so well as the final 7k was a long continuous uphill climb but by the end of the night after a delicious homemade soup and salad and bread – I was recharged and ready for day 3.

After all I hopefully have my typical losing something and getting lost out of the way very early on this journey 🙂

Camino history lesson 🙂

Salas was a very small but cool medieval passed thru before starting my final 7k long climb to bodenya. I took my a much needed lunch break there.

More Salas

Yes we all missed this marker at a split point in the trail – it was kind of hidden!

Group of us trying to make our way back to trail:)

This old massive monastery actually has an albergue in it

Encounters on the Camino you don’t normally see everyday at home 😂

Initial climb out of Grado

Camino Primitivo under way!

Day 1 is in the books – the weather was great – started off foggy and once that burned off was beautiful sunny skies that by the end of the day I was feeling the heat and humidity and dragging a bit. There were people on the trail pretty much the entire way not a ton like the Camino Frances route but enough that I would keep seeing new and sometimes the same people throughout the day. Once out of the city of Oviedo the countryside leafing to the next city I’m at Grado was beautiful. Day 1 is always tough (actually the first several days:)) as it takes me some time to get used to the whole process of getting up and out the door with your pack all set for the day! Yes working out, running, hiking etc all helps in preparing, but unless someone has time to walk several hours a day with a 20 pound pack lol – definitely takes a few days for the body to adapt. The actual hike today wasn’t that bad (although it did have a few good climbs and descents) – as we haven’t reached the mountains yet I think that will happen around day 4 or so it’s good to get in several days we hit those days!

Was a bit confusing with the markings getting out of Oviedo but that’s not unusual for getting out of cities. But once I was in the outer limits and the rest of the way the marking are very good. Compared to my last pilgrimage to Italy on the via difrancesco – the Camino is so well marked it would be difficult to get lost – which I’ve done on most of my journeys at least once each trip lol – don’t really need GPX files for the Camino as I absolutely needed for Italy.

The issue with getting out of Oviedo is many of the markings are on the ground line this. Plus there are more than 1 Camino route which passes thru

The first “real” Camino marker on the outcdkirts of Oviedo

First breakfast stop of the day – Tostadas con tomate y aceite – so good!

First view of the stopping point for today – Grado

Staying at one on the nicer albergue’s Got in around 2:30 – pilgrims are starting to roll in now til probably late afternoon. Not sure if it’s all the beds will be filled they have like 30+ beds. The typical routine at these places is as soon as people arrive it’s shower, unpack, laundry, and rest !Many times laundry means hand wash and line dry your clothes. Perhaps not on everyone’s list of things to do on vacation but wouldn’t categorize pilgrimage as a vacation 😂

So far 2 for 2 in getting the bottom bunk. Top is challenge to climb up at end of day!

Oviedo – a perfect starting point!

Amazingly everything worked out perfectly for the long trek over to Oviedo today or actually I guess it was yesterday when I left:) From the always controversial question amongst Camino chatter – can you bring your hiking poles on board in your pack which most say no but I successfully did once again(by collapsing them down put on the rubber tips and put inside pack – hasn’t failed to get thru security yet), to the anticipated 1 hour connection time in Madrid(but thankfully it turned into 1.5 hours as my flight was a 1/2 hour early) to get thru customs, hop on transportation and make it to another terminal quite a distance away for my connecting flight, to the arrival in Asturias/Oviedo where I caught the 9 am bus into town with a few minutes to spare otherwise I would have to wait another hour, to the hospitalero (this is what the person who runs an albergue/hostel is called) kindly opening the place up early for when I arrived. So couldn’t have asked for it to go any smoother!

And then Oviedo what a perfect Camino town to start your journey from. It’s one of those mid sized Spanish cities on the Camino that is filled with great architecture, great plazas and great history. And getting in early I had the day to explore in between a few exhaustion naps:)

Some Oviedo pics – had a lot of time today so took a lot! The blog posts will definitely shorten as I start walking:)

Pinchos

Nice of the dog to pose lol

The starting point of Camino Primitivo – right in front of the cathedral – go right for another Camino along the coast

Lunch less than 5 euros for a cervaza and bocadilla – crazy and a view of Cathedral!

My albergue/hostel I’m staying – right next to main cathedral and Camino Primitivo starting point.

Yes back to pilgrim living – does take some time to transition to it!

One of the must things to do in Oviedo is take a tour of the majestic cathedral – which dates back to 13-14th century. The art for those that know art which is not me but I do a appreciate the amazingness of it! – is described as Pre-Romanesque to Baroque, including Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance parts.

The Holy Chamber where relics dating back to 800-900 are stored including an ark covenant and holy shroud in the center – no not the famous shroud of Turin but there is some story on how they are related

This site is marked as the spot that Pope John Paul II prayed in front of this sculpture in his 1989 pilgrimage to the cathedral.

First really interesting pilgrim I met staying here is Erin from Poland – he’s been walking for get this – over 100 days ! He basically walked out of his apartment in Warsaw, Poland 3 months ago, and has been walking for over 100 days now! And yes the Camino is marked from Poland to Santiago! He’s finishing his journey on the Primitivo – wow he must be a waking machine by now lol!

And lastly 2 of the cutest (besides my Granddaughter’s :)) little Spanish girls